Deciding to go to Havasupai was one of those things that I did on a whim. After seeing beautiful photos on Instagram I knew I had to go. What I didn’t realize was the effort and planning this trip would take. This ultimate Havasupai Falls hiking guide will take you through all the things you need to know before you go.
The Havasupai permits are like gold for any hiker or anyone who wants to see this beauty. That’s because you get to visit Lower Navajo Falls, Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls, and Beaver Falls which are on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. They are some of the most beautiful falls I have ever seen in the world and I have seen many. It’s well worth the effort it takes to visit Havasupai reservation.
The photos on social media do not do this place justice. If you can imagine walking in the desert for hours and then coming up on this beautiful oasis then you will understand the craze.
The Ultimate Havasupai Falls Hiking Guide
Table of Contents
How Much Does It Cost
First and foremost you must get a permit prior to going to Havasupai and it’s based on a lottery system so there are no guarantees. There is a price price to hike and camp at Havasupai. It’s not free so if you are lucky enough to get the permit you must come up with the money immediately. There are no payment plans or pay later options.
In 2019 they changed the pricing so its different from my visit in 2018. It used to be very affordable to visit Havasupai but due to overcrowding they raised the prices to maintain the reservation. Also there is no day hiking so you have to get the permit for at least two nights which means that if you have never camped it’s time to get your camping gear.
When I visited I got a 3 day 2 night permit because for what you spent at the time this seemed like the most ideal option. Also I wanted to make this a weekend visit to avoid having to go during the week. The only thing that sucked was that going over a weekend costs extra. The pricing and days of hiking has changed as you’ll see below so check the reservation website for changes that may not be here.
Updated Prices
As of 2019 the pricing is as follows and reservations are ONLY allowed for 3 Nights / 4 Days. It is non-refundable and there is $100 change fee. Make sure before you apply for the permit that your dates are exactly when you want to go.
- $100 per person per weekday night
- $125 per person per weekend night (Friday/Saturday/Sunday nights)
These prices include all permits, fees, and taxes. So for a 3 Night / 4 Day stay will be a total of between $300 and $375 per person depending on how many weekend nights you plan on being at the campground.
How to get the Permit
Now the tricky part is actually getting one. Permits for the year are released in February. You have to create an account to book a permit and you can do that here. The permits sell out the same day they are released online. You cannot call to get them anymore so you have to settle for checking and refreshing the system until you get your dates. I would recommend being flexible with your dates and weekdays may be easier to get than weekends.
It is a requirement to book the permit before you go. The permits are not issuable at the trailhead so you must get one before you go. It’s a long drive to Havasupai from any major city and it would suck to drive all the way and be turned back. When you check in at the trailhead they give you a wrist band. There are people who will check if you have the wristband on along the route.
Only one name can be listed on the reservation and that person must be going on the hike. They will check your identity. You must pay all the fees when you book so make sure you have the money ready. When you create an account you can enter your credit card for the payment which will make buying them faster. Also note that you can only use one credit card.
The permit is now transferrable using the transfer portal linked here. Simply click on the “Campground” link and then “View” your reservation. From there you can click on the “Transfer” button.
How to Get There
Getting to the reservation is not a short trip from any major cities. The trailhead is located on the Grand Canyon rim. You will have to drive to the canyon unless you can hire someone to fly you there : ).
The closest cities to drive from are:
- 3 hours from Flagstaff, AZ
- 4 hours from Las Vegas, NV
- 5 hours from Phoenix, AZ
I decided to fly to Las Vegas on a Thursday night and drive immediately to Hualapai Hilltop where the trail head is. We would sleep in the car before heading out in the early morning at 4:00 AM. We rented a car through Rentalcars which has great options.The plan was to hike 4 – 5 hours which would get us to Havasu falls by 9:00 AM. That meant we would have the whole day to enjoy the reservation. It would also mean that we wouldn’t hike in the hot desert heat and we could pick the best camping spot once we got there.
As far as plans go that didn’t happen for us. We were delayed out of Boston and this pushed us way behind schedule. This caused us to arrive much later than planned (thanks Spirit), and after picking up our rental we made the journey to Hualapai. We got there at around noon which meant we would hike with the sun directly in our faces. This made the hike 100 times tougher. I was cursing Spirit airlines the whole way.
Best Time To Visit
The time of year that you hike matters because if you go in the summer the sun will probably be much hotter. The best time in my opinion is in the fall or spring. This will probably be when everyone wants to go so you may be forced to visit in the summer if there are no other available times.
Luckily I got a spot in May before it got too hot during the day and too cold at night. You do not want to be hiking in the middle of July or August when temps are in the hundreds and there is virtually nothing shading you from the sun.
How Long it Takes to Hike
This hike is not for the faint hearted. It’s not necessarily a tough hike because it’s mostly flat but it’s a long hike no matter how experienced you are. It is an investment of time, effort and love. The hike is about 10 miles one way so round trip you will probably hike 20 plus miles because the other falls are a bit further. It can take 4 to 5 hours to hike in one way depending on your speed just to get to the campgrounds.
If you don’t want to hike you can take a helicopter to and from the reservation. The residents get priority for the helicopter and the wait time can be as long as it takes to hike in. Be prepared to wait and sometimes not even get on the helicopter. The ultimate Havasupai falls hiking guide includes the helicopter schedule below.
You have to get to the reservation village early to put your name on the helicopter list. It’s on a first come first serve basis and as mentioned above locals get priority. It costs $85 per person and cash is king. If you use a credit card it costs about $15 more.
Helicopter Schedule
The helicopter only works on certain days as shown below:
March 15 to October 15:
- Sunday: 10 am to 1 pm
- Monday: 10 am to 1 pm
- Thursday: 10 am to 1 pm
- Friday: 10 am to 1 pm
October 16 to March 14:
- Sunday: 10 am to 1 pm
- Friday: 10 am to 1 pm
Things to Bring
- Tent. Unless you plan to sleep on a hammock a tent is an absolute must.
- Hiking Shoes and Socks. You need a good pair of shoes because the hike is long and exhausting. These socks are a must to keep your feet cushioned.
- Camping food. You can buy regular camping food or noodles like we did. We paired them with bread and some cured meats. It was much cheaper.
- Jet Boiler. This came in super handy for cooking our meals and boiling water for coffee in the morning. You’ll need propane and you can get that at any walmart on the way there. Remember you can’t fly with propane though.
- Sleeping bag and pad. A sleeping bag is absolutely necessary and a nice pad is more comfortable on the hard ground.
- Hiking poles. They will come in handy when you are extremely tired especially on the way back going up the switchbacks.
- Camera. You need a good camera to capture the magical beauty of the reservation.
- Sunscreen because you don’t want to get burned in the desert heat. Trust me on this.
- Hat. Came in extremely handy.
- Backpack. Make sure you buy the right size because if you get one that’s too big it will make the hike much harder as you won’t be comfortable.
- Bathing suite. I loved swimming in the lower Navajo falls and Beaver falls.
- Headlamp. We planned to hike in an out at 4 AM and the headlamp was a must for seeing where we were walking.
- Day-pack to use during the hikes to the other falls when you get there.
- Water purifier. They said the water is safe to drink but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
- Utensils. Bring some camping pots, spoon and fork.
- Camelbak. You’ll thank me for this! It made hydrating so much easier during the LONG hike.
- Sandals for using around the camping ground and falls.
- Trash bags. Remember to leave no trace.
- Print your permit before you leave.
- Toiletries.
The Camping Grounds
The camping grounds are on a first come basis. Look for a great spot and pitch your tent. Once you reach the reservation and see an arrow to Supai then you only have maybe 2-3 miles left. You will probably be exhausted but keep going the best is yet to come.
Once you get to the village cool off with some cold water and take a little break to nurse your legs. Don’t stay too long though. The first falls you will see are the Lower Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls. Stop for a while to swim and take photos. I recommend not skipping them for later because you won’t have time to get back to them plus why go back and forth if you don’t have to.
The next falls are the Havasu Falls and they are quite a sight for sore eyes. When we got there it was crowded and we were beyond tired. We took a few quick photos before moving on to the campground to set up a tent before night fall.
The next morning we woke up early and headed to Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. It’s a bit of a hike to get there but they are so beautiful. In my opinion you cannot go to Havasupai and not go to Beaver Falls. In the evening we came back to the camping grounds and then walked to Havasu Falls for the rest of the day. It was such a beautiful day and one that I’ll be remembering for the rest of my life.
Things You Need to Know
Also included in the ultimate Havasupai falls hiking guide is a summary of things you need to know:
- You cannot hike in without a permit. Print it before you get there. You have to check in at the trailhead and the village.
- The permit is non-refundable but you can transfer them to someone else.
- The Havasu Falls hike is 4 – 6 hours and about 10 miles one way.
No day hikes are allowed. - It’s not a difficult hike because it’s mostly flat but the hike back up has some tough switchbacks. You will stop a lot.
- You should bring a-lot of water and I used my camelbak for that. Stay hydrated folks.
- Helicopters are available for people who don’t want to hike but the wait time is long and not guaranteed. It costs about $85 per person one way.
- There are mules available to carry backpacks for a price.
- No drones and alcohol allowed.
- No campfires are allowed. You can use your jet burner to cook though.
I hope you find the ultimate Havasupai falls hiking guide helpful and that you go. This is truly one of the most beautiful places in the world.
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